Archive for July, 2012


Camping–

Stayed over night at Snaring River Campground in Jasper National Park. It is located closest to Maligne Canyon and Lake where we spent the day. At Snaring River campground, the price was $15.90/night for a space (no hook-ups and no senior discount). Other campgrounds for RV’s here are a little more expensive than we paid. We saw a black bear just outside the campground so that made it interesting. Most National Parks we have been in do not allow boondocking so the designated campground was our only option save leaving the park. The campground was fine, quiet and completely dark an hour after we arrived (so we couldn’t even see our nearest neighbor) but it was smoke-filled as some one had a campfire that produced a tremendous amount of smoke.

Jasper National Park–
We started our day fairly early so saw some wildlife by the side of the road and we ended our day an hour before dark so had a chance to see more wildlife as we drove along. This park is huge and we are just hitting some of the highlights as outlined by the National Parks Visitor Center folks. I can imagine spending an entire summer just exploring this park there’s so much to see. Before we started sight-seeing we got gas at $4.53/gal. regular (price of gas for us is improving!).

Maligne Road–
We took the Maligne Road turn off in Jasper National Park. This is a good, paved, two lane road and leads to some of the many spectacular places in the park. Our favorites today were the Maligne Canyon and the Maligne Lake. The Maligne Canyon appears to have been cut by the fast-moving Maligne River. The canyon rock faces can be seen all the way down to the raging water by taking an easy trail that includes footbridges over the canyon, raging river and a spectacular area where the rapids go over a breathtaking waterfall with tremendous force.
At Maligne Lake we took a 90 minute lake cruise. Cost was $57.50 each and no senior discount but it turned out to be money well spent. In addition to seeing spectacular mountains, a lovely box canyon and glaciers it took us by the well-known “Spirit Island”. We were able to disembark to an overlook giving everyone an opportunity to take pictures of the iconic “Spirit Island”. The island was very small, tree covered and rather non-descrepit but the color of the water surrounding it was that glacier melt, beautiful blue/green, the surrounding mountains were wonderful to look at and the sky was a lovely blue and studded with fluffy white clouds.
All this on a beautiful sunny day that was shirtsleeve weather. The tour guide said that last year they had 73 days in a row of rain at the lake.  Sadly, many people who went out on the cruise last year did not get to see some of this fabulous scenery.

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The town of Jasper–
Jasper is located inside the Jasper National Park and is essentially “all things tourist” in an upscale way. It was very busy with lots of tourists when we were there but business owners said this was a slow year despite the fact that people had to drive round and round looking for a parking spot. We parked the RV a few blocks from town and just walked. When we first arrived in town, there was a light drizzle, but then the sun came out and it turned into a beautiful day. The Visitor Center for the National Park is right in the heart of Jasper so we walked over there and got lots of information. The town reminded us of Truckee and South Lake Tahoe in California. Cute towns with lots of things to do and see, all in a beautiful environment. We spent most of the day poking around this pretty little town. In and out of art galleries, coffee shops, etc. Even took a look at a house for sale (from the outside). A lovely way to spend the day.
It does get cold here in the winter of down to about 20 degrees F. but they say they get very little precipitation (at least in the valleys), so it’s fairly dry. You wouldn’t say it was dry by the look of it with everything either green or in bloom.

Boondock–
Though there are pull0ffs in the park, as with most National Parks, boondocking is not allowed.  We had been exploring Jasper National Park and the town of Jasper that is actually in the park. After a busy day, we tried to get a campsite at the campground last night that we were sent to by the National Park staff because it had some “openings”. It was full when we arrived so we pulled over and waited for a park ranger to ask about options. The only option he could suggest was a campground right near the northeastern exit of the park. So off we went and rather than stay in a campground at the inside edge of the park we opted to exit the park and stay at a nearby Walmart parking lot.

Serendipity–
We were a little aggravated that we were unable to find a place to stay near the beautiful Maligne Canyon in the closest campground. We were sent there by the NP staff but we arrive to find every campsite taken. We’ve learned not to “sweat the small stuff” so we started driving northeast toward the outlying campground. On the way, we pulled over and got wonderful pictures of a majestic elk with his antlers still in velvet. Also this drive gave us views of the northeastern part of the park we would not have seen with our original plan of exploration.
By the time we were approaching the Jasper National Park’s most northeastern campground we were almost at the exit so we decided just to keep driving and park in the nearby Walmart parking lot with a planned return to the park for the morning. That move paid off in a great viewing of a big bull moose with a large mantle still in velvet just grazing on the side of the road. He was kind enough to stay around so quite a few folks got some great pictures. What luck! Our only two wildlife sightings and they were due to a perceived inconvenience! Ha! Talk about lemonade out of lemons!

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Read. It could save your life–

Yesterday, soon after we left Prince George, we stopped at Willow River Interp. Area. This is a lovely turn off Highway 16 just east of Prince George. There are picnic tables, bathroom, a lovely trail, and what appears to be a wide, shallow river. Among other things there is a memorial to eight young men who drown one day on this river just downstream. Apparently they were in a canoe and came to a very, narrow canyon down stream and their day ended in tragedy. I had just read the plaque on the memorial about this terrible event when a young family of four parked and spent some time looking around. After awhile, I overheard the woman exclaim that this would be a great place to launch their raft as the water was shallow and didn’t appear to be moving fast. Uh, I couldn’t just ignore what I heard. Suggested to the family that before they consider launching their boat there that they read the plaque. Luckily, they were receptive to the suggestion. As we drove away we heard their exclamations of horror and declarations that they would not go rafting there.
British Columbia, Canada–

British Columbia is simply beautiful. As soon as we entered British Columbia we knew this place is special. To add to the beauty in British Columbia, there is the Canadian penchant for being friendly and unfailingly nice.

Baker Creek Rest Area–
We stopped to eat dinner at a rest area along the Yellowhead Highway. Immediately, there were hundreds of mosquitoes surrounding the motor home looking for a way in. Many hovered at the windshield looking at their dinner that had just arrived. Yikes!!! Since I am about 5’5″, I have no problem climbing out of my seat into the back of the motor home without going outside. On the other hand my 6’4′, long, skinny husband can not easily unwrap his long legs from around the steering wheel or get his size 13 feet out of the drivers well. He always goes out the door and in the side door. As I looked at the stricken look on his face, I giggled. Then my wonderful, gentle, loving husband said in a quiet voice “When I open the door to go out, a hundred mosquitoes will come in and when I come in the side door, a hundred mosquitoes will follow me in.” Which caused me to scream “Don’t open the door!”  Then, right on the spot, we figured out a way for him to get into the back of the motor home from the driver’s seat without opening the door. Oh, yes! It can be done!!!

Boondocked–
After dinner, we continued up the road toward Jasper National Park and stopped at a rest area that was at a higher elevation and had a brisk breeze blowing making it harder for mosquitoes to fly. It rained hard last night. Thunder, lightening and lots of rain drumming on the roof of the motor home.   I love this sound.  This morning it was slightly overcast and the air was clean and smelled sweet.  The temp. was 60 degrees F. when we woke.

Jasper National Park, Alberta–

We arrived at the park this morning and spent a little time figuring out a plan to explore.  So far, the park is beautiful, as you would expect.   The cost for entering the Park was $20, we only paid $18 something with a senior discount and we are excited to explore.

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Boondock–
Soon after arriving in Prince George, BC. yesterday we went to Costco for supplies and checked to see if we could stay in their parking area. No problem. Think there would have been no problem at the nearby Walmart or we could have moved on and found a place but we want to use a Wi-fi at one of the free sites. Will probably use a nearby Starbucks so Jerry can check his stocks and maybe sell some options.

Jasper National Park–
Our goal is to go to Jasper National Park so we will begin driving in that direction upon leaving Prince George, BC. today.

Smithers, BC to Prince George, BC–
Yesterday, we drove from just east of Smithers, BC and arrived in Prince George, BC in the late afternoon. Decided that it was enough driving for one day and we also need supplies. Prince George, BC is a fairly large town with a population of about 80,000 and located in the geographic center of British Columbia.  It’s the fourth largest city in the province. It’s a good place for us to stop, rest and resupply. We are always interested in the commerce of an area and try to decipher, just by looking around (something like what Eleanor Roosevelt used to do as she traversed the country) how an area is fairing. You get some idea by seeing housing and the year of car driven as well as how many trains, trucks, etc. appear to be in action. Driving through the eastern part of the province to its center shows the area to be a fertile, apparently fairly prosperous, farming area. Along the highway, farm after farm seemed to be dedicated to growing hay and it seems this is prime harvest time as the hay is stacked in many, huge rolls in the fields. The backdrop for all this farming activity is frequent views of beautiful wooded areas, rolling hills, lakes large and small, rivers and streams. Logging seems to be an important industry here, judging by the number of full logging trucks on the road. We also saw a lot of gasoline trucks and Jerry said there was a refinery somewhere around there. The refinery’s presence is not well reflected in the gas prices, they remain a little high. All in all, it is a relaxing drive through a rather bucolic area.

Gas Prices–
We got gas this morning and paid $4.91per gal. for regular, not as bad as sometimes but could be better. This is the approximate going rate in this area.

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Boondock–

We stopped along the Yellowhead Highway just southeast of Smithers, BC. We love the British Columbia rest areas! They are usually big with bathrooms, picnic tables, trash cans and BC does not allow any trucks to idle so there is no diesel engine noise (to say nothing of pollution!). Many of the rest areas have free RV dump sites. As for “Canadian Nice”, some of the rest areas even have a sign that reads “Please limit your stay to eight hours”. Lovely. We were very tired after an early morning start of bear viewing so a peaceful rest area was a welcome site.

Fish Creek Wildlife Viewing Area.  Hyder, Alaska–
Luckily, Tuesday night we were able to boondock only a mile away from the bear viewing site so Wednesday morning it was quick to get there early. Up before 5:30 am and drove there arriving just as the Ranger arrived at 5:45am. He let us in immediately even though they don’t officially open until 6:00am as the Alfa male grizzly was already there fishing. We were able to watch this grizzly repeatedly catch and eat salmon and patrol the creek. No other bear in sight as this Alfa male is one intimidating bear!
About an hour after we arrived we heard that earlier a small grizzly had run across the visitors parking lot for the Observation Site and then a small grizzly showed up at Fish Creek. Mind you, everything is relative and had we seen just this bear in the wild we would not be calling him small! The new grizzly was very timid. He did step into Fish Creek but seconds later he turned around and took off without catching a fish. I guess he decided to retreat and live another day. The Ranger told us that when the number of salmon in the creek increases, other bear will be able to fish here and not be run off by the Alfa male.
There were, of course, plenty of eagles out in the morning also.

Leaving Stewart, BC/Hyder, AK–
After a rest and lunch we started our drive to Banff National Park. Hate to leave Hyder, AK but will return another time as we love to see wildlife just living their lives in the wild. We continued to the end of the Cassiar Highway and then took Yellowhead Highway southeast toward Prince George, BC. Saw a black bear on the side of the road, grazing. We’ll probably get to the national parks on Saturday. We have not seen Jasper National Park or Banff National Park but have only heard good things about them and we’re looking forward to seeing them.

Notes–
Last night, after getting settled in the Rest Area it was dark! Haven’t seen “dark” in quite awhile and we could see millions of stars in the sky as there was little light pollution where we were.

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Boondock–
Tuesday night we boondocked along side Fish Creek in the Tongass National Forest. This location is just one mile up the road from the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site, on the left side of the road. Perfect, as we were planning to leave this site very early in the morning to go to the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site to see if we can see some grizzlies. This time we did not just pull over, as is our usual method, as we know that the National Forest Service has various new restrictions on boondocking. So, when we arrived in Hyder, Alaska we went into the Tongass National Forest Service office and discussed our options with them. They informed us about boondock sites in that area and were very helpful but very concerned that we were “bear aware”. As we drove along to our boondock site, we noticed some RVers boondocking in areas that the Forest Service told us were unacceptable. When we went back that way in the morning, one site was clear (did they just decide to go elsewhere or did the Forest Service move them?) and the other site still had three RVs boondocking there. Anyway, when we arrived in our boondock site there was an RV already there and another arrived after we got settled. There was plenty of room for all of us.

Stewart,BC/Hyder, AK access road–
On the Stewart,BC/Hyder, AK access road there are several glaciers. We got up early yesterday morning to view Bear Glacier as it is said the morning light is best for seeing this glacier and it was worth the effort. Also, after the glaciers the road took us through the beautiful Bear River Canyon which was an experience we could repeat many times, joyfully.

Stewart, BC–
This is a cute, organized little town that is locate smack dab next to Hyder, AK. It’s population is only about 700 but it offers many important services. First of all, it has an “ice-free harbor” on the Portland Canal and next; it has all the necessary emergency services like fire dept., police, a little 10 bed hospital, etc. The streets are clean and paved and there is a very nice Estuary Boardwalk next to the Visitor Center. The visitor center is staffed with a helpful, cheerful person. The Canadian Border here is manned between Stewart and Hyder and we had to show our passports to return to Stewart from Hyder, Ak. We were told that Stewart is the snowiest place in Canada. Don’t know if this is accurate but if it is true, that is a LOT of snow.

Hyder, AK–
Well, Hyder, Alaska appears to live in a different world compared to Stewart. Hyder is a town of only about 100 people, the roads are dirt/gravel and many of the buildings look like they have seen better days. It looked a bit like a somewhat modern “Wild West” place which is what we loved about it. The US border is unmanned and anyone can just drive the 4-5 minutes across from Stewart, BC. to Hyder, AK. The ubiquitous “road work” is going on in both Stewart and Hyder. What Hyder has (besides the great recreational opportunities in a beautiful environment), that no other place I know of has, is the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site just three miles north and run by the US Forest Service. This Wildlife Observation Site is frequented by many coastal brown bear (grizzlies) especially when the salmon are spawning, many bald eagle, etc. A three day pass here costs $10 dollars and is free for those with the NPS Pass.
It has an elevated boardwalk well above the water where you can easily and fairly safely watch the salmon swim up the creek and the grizzlies, black bear, eagles, etc. catch and eat them. I had read that the best time to come was mid-July through early September but the salmon run was late this year and was not yet in full-swing. Since the number of spawning salmon is low so far, the “alfa male grizzly” kept most of the other bear away so he could have the place essentially to himself. There’s a Forest Ranger on the boardwalk each day and I noticed they are carrying bear spray. Here’s hoping it won’t be needed! One of the Rangers said really the best time to come is August so we will plan our next trip here with that in mind.
After poking around the little towns of Stewart and Hyder, we went to the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site and were rewarded with the “alfa male” grizzly putting on a wonderful show for all of us. Strutting up the stream and when directly across from us, catching a big fish. All the while we were there, there were many eagles swooping along just above the water doing their own fishing. We have never been this close to a grizzly and Whoa, was he ever BIG!!!
We were told to come back early the next morning and that is what we did and will write about it tomorrow

Plan–
After an early return in the morning to the Fish Creek Wildlife Observation Site and watch for bear we will rest and then in the afternoon we will head out toward Banff National Park.  Have become accustom to all these wonderful views.

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Boondock–

We boondocked just off the access road to Stewart, BC/Hyder, AK in a
quiet spot surrounded by mountains last night. Most of the surrounding mountains
are high enough to have snow and at least one has a fairly large
glacier near the top.

Dease Lake, BC to Stewart, BC/Hyder, AK spur road–
Drove south on the Cassiar Highway yesterday to the Stewart, BC/Hyder,
AK spur road. The Cassiar Highway south of Dease Lake is a mixed bag
of road conditions. We found areas of multiple potholes and some
frost heaves, areas where the pavement suddenly ends and a section of
gravel/dirt road starts and extends for various periods, plus there
were areas where the road is an excellent, well marked, two lane
highway. There are a few steep downgrades and some fairly narrow
sections (actually getting down to one lane for short distances) as
well as the ubiquitous “road work” areas. A few logging projects are
ongoing just off the road as evidenced by the occasionally full
logging truck passing by and, of course, there are wonderful views of
beautiful lakes, rivers, streams, mountains and valleys.
A lunchtime stop at a turnout over looking a lovely little lake and we
spent some time just enjoying the views. Ate some of the freshly
caught, flash frozen Alaska salmon we had purchased as we left the
Alaska coast. We’re experienced salmon eaters and this Alaska salmon
actually tasted slightly sweet it was so delicious!
As we meandered along, we were lucky to see a total of eight black
bear grazing along side the road where there’s lots of clover growing.
Don’t understand why some tourists are in such an “all fired hurry”,
racing through a beautiful area to get to where? We love it when we
pull over and slow to see the bears and folks zoom by, then realize
what we are looking at and…wait for it… the brakes go on and they
pull over. Then they too are bear watching.

Notes–

We have found that many times that the locals of an area will offer tips of
what to see, that turns out to be well worth exploring. This was true
for us again in Dease Lake, BC. Chatting with an off-duty fireman of
the town of Dease Lake led us to a lovely small horse-shoe shaped lake
behind the town (Allen Lake) that is a great place to spend a little
time. We parked and walked down to the lake.  Met a school principal at the lake who suggested nearby hiking trails. A short hike later we were quite pleased to have followed up on the tips.

Plans–
The Stewart, BC/Hyder, AK access road has a few glaciers to see.  We have seen a couple of them but tomorrow we will rise early and view Bear Glacier.  Later, we’ll enter Stewart, BC/Hyder, AK, tour around and try our luck at the bear viewing area.

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Boondock–

We boondocked along the Cassiar Highway. This highway is not an especially busy road during the day but at night it falls almost silent as few seem to travel this highway at night. We stayed on a large gravel turn out and the only sound was of a river rushing by. We could not actually see the river as there was so much undergrowth between us and the river but we could hear it well. It gets dark at night now so maybe we are south enough for the sun to actually set.  The temp this morning when we woke was 53 degrees F.  Yesterday, during the day , the temp. got up to the high 70′s.

Gas Prices–
Filled our gas tank along the Alaskan Highway for $5.51/gal. reg. and then topped it off again for $5.51/gal. reg. when we turned down the Cassiar Highway. We needn’t have worried about getting gas along the Cassiar Highway as there are plenty of opportunities even though we were traveling on a Sunday. At least during the daytime there were stations open along the way. Think that at night, this would be more problematic as I doubt they keep all the gas stations open all night.

Cassiar Highway–
Left the Alaska Highway and the Yukon behind and turned down the Cassier Highway which immediately brings you into beautiful British Columbia. The Cassiar Highway is a somewhat narrow, paved, two lane highway with lovely views of a less developed part of British Columbia. For the first few miles of the Cassiar, coming from the Alaska Highway, there are hugh swaths of burned areas.  Growing along the ground under these burned trees is lots of pink blooming fireweed.  It provides beautiful color for as far as the eye can see but it’s also is a food source for bear, deer, etc.   Occasional small towns are dotted along the roadway and, of course, there is the ubiquitous road repair.  We found plenty of of areas of the road that are not in the process of being repaired but are certainly in need of attention. There are big trucks using this road as well as a fair number of RVers, etc. Have seen two black bear on the side of the road and one was kind enough to sit down and pose for pictures. A car raced around us to speed on their way but when they realized what we were looking at, on went the car brakes and they got some pictures of the posing black bear also.  Besides stopping for pictures of beautiful places, we stopped in a few of the small town and chatted with some of the locals.
At lunch, we pulled in alongside a lovely, small lake and watched a mama duck and her duckling paddle around. This mama duck only had one duckling which is rather unusual so something must have happened to the rest of her brood.

Plans–
We are headed for Hyder, Alaska to hopefully see some grizzlies fishing (assuming the fish are running).

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Boondock–

Yesterday, we pulled into the Morley River Recreation Site (DC 752, using the MILEPOST book, just off the Alaska Highway) which is listed as a day-use area. There were four other RV’s there and a woman came out to talk with us. She told us they were all boondocking and actually they were cooking dinner on their Coleman stove. So, we spent the night. This looks like it used to be a camp ground as there is a list of “camping rules” and a now defunct RV dump site. This big gravel parking area is next to a wooded area with picnic tables and a trail leading down to the river. One of the boondockers said that he tried fishing the river with no luck. Three of the boondockers are from British Columbia and one is from Alaska.

The South Klondike Highway and The Alaska Highway–
These two highways, while not as spectacular as some other highways, certainly display great  beauty. There are rugged looking mountains, wooded area, etc. but by far and away the most amazing place along the Alaska Highway is the 78 miles long by 2 miles wide Teslin Lake which is mostly along the road and seems to go on forever. As is our habit, we stopped so many times to take pictures as we traveled we practically crawled along. It is only by virtue of the fact that the days are long so we just keep driving (even when it is getting late) that we get anywhere.

Planning–
We’re planning to head down the Cassiar Highway on our way to Hyder. We heard the salmon are running there. If so, we should see some grizzly bears. Oh boy, I hope so!!!

 

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Boondocked–

We boondocked along the South Klondike Highway north of Skagway in a quiet pull off.   There is almost no traffic on this beautiful highway at night.

Crossing the Border–
Twenty miles north of Skagway, Alaska is the Yukon and the Canadian border.  The boder crossing was quick and painless.  They did ask how long we would be in Canada so we had to guess as our plans are usually fluid.

Gas Prices–
Filled up with gas at a Tesoro station in Haines, Alaska for $4.91/gal. reg. before getting on the ferry to Skagway.  This was considered the lowest price for gas in town and though it is high we know the prices in Canada will likely be higher.

Alaska State Ferry from Haines to Skagway, Alaska–
Took the ferry to Skagway today. Liked Haines and will return one day. Our ferry ride was scheduled for 12:30 pm and we were required to be in line by 11:30 am. They come around and check to be sure the RV propane is turned off at the valve, our ticket and a photo ID. They asked about containers for flammables, we do not carry any but some folks do carry extra gas cans, propane for a Coleman stove, etc. Hanging out, waiting for the ferry was interesting. First of all, you are at the beautiful Portage Cove in Haines. The water is a beautiful blue/green, smooth as glass, fish can be seen jumping out of the water, people watching is fun, to say nothing of watching the ferry crew preparing the ship for travel. Of course, Jerry met a new friend. He’s wonderful that way.  He likes everyone and can chat about any topic with them. Even before we had the RV and stayed in motels on our way back and forth across the country, he always made friends whereever we were.
The voyage to Skagway was over calm waters and quite uneventful. You just wait your turn to drive on with experts (the experienced crew) directing you and the reverse procedure to drive off the ferry. Can’t stay in the RV on the ferry so you can wait in the lounge or outside on the deck.  The Marine Highway Service from Haines to Skagway is only six years old. Before that, it was necessary to drive all the way around a triangle of roads to get from Haines to Skagway. This way is much better for all concerned.  The cost for the ferry for us and the RV from Haines to Skagway was $142.00.

Skagway, Alaska–
This little town is all about the tourist. One of the visitor centers in town is essentially a booking agency for tours, etc. which is fine if that is what you want. Two cruise ship had already off loaded their passengers before we arrived on the ferry so the town was bustling with visitors. We took the self-guided walking tour around town and enjoyed seeing the old building while eating an ice cream cone.
The best part of this town is that some of it is part of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Park. This National Park extends from Seattle to Dawson City in Canada. The US National Park Service controls the parts of the park in the US and collaborates with Canada in relation to the parts of the park that are located in Canada. The National Park has a visitor center in Skagway on the corner of 2nd and Broadway Street and was very interesting as well as helpful.
After the walking tour of Skagway we drove out to the remains of the Dyea Townsite and Cemetery. Dyea played an important role in the gold rush of 1897 and was a nearly a ghost town six years later when the gold rush ended. Dyea was located at the head of the Chilkoot Trail and that was the reason it became a boom town. The completion of the train from Skagway the Whitehorse spelled the end for Dyea as folks could more easily take the train. It is a gravel/dirt road to Dyea and as dirt roads go it is good but it is narrow (in some places, only one lane) and has both switchbacks and blind curves. We had no trouble on the road as there is room to pull over and all the opposite direction drivers pulled over and drove carefully. As usual, the NPS, told us that the road was too difficult for our RV but we passed 5th wheels as large or larger than our motorhome on the road.  There is a NPS campground near the Dyea Township at the end of this dirt/gravel road and when we toured it there was no one staying in the campground.
We also visited the Avalanche Slide Cemetery in Dyea where about 100 gold-fever crazed people tried going up the Chilkoot Trail despite being warned of an impending avalanche and were buried by the huge amount of snow that plummed down the trail.

South Klondike Highway–

After boondocking last night, we continued along the South Klondike Highway.  While this highway is not quite as beautiful as the Haines Highway, it is still quite beautiful.  Stopped along the road to take pictures and visited the town of Carcross.  In Carcross we also took the walking tour.  After leaving Carcross we came upon Emerald Lake…beautiful!

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